Oil Review Part I: Babassu, Borage and Coconut Oils

Here is a brief review of each oil I have tried on my daughter’s hair and the results they have yielded.  Most of her hair is 3C, with a little 4A at the crown and 3B at the edges (though that could develop into 3C as she outgrows her baby fine hair.)

Today I am reviewing babassu, borage and coconut oils.

Babassu Oil


This oil is very similar to coconut oil in the way that it acts. (It also grows on a palm.) Similarly it is also high in mystiric and lauric acids.  I do find it more versatile than coconut oil, hair wise, because even though it too similarly gets hard at or below room temperature, it stays more true to the hair in its behavior regardless of climate.  Some people experience great results with coconut oil in one climate, and when they move out of the state or country, the same coconut oil leaves their hair feeling crunchy or dry.

Babassu oil worked for us here in the desert of Arizona, so would most likely work for us in California as well.  Incidentally, this is why it is in almost every Oggboo formulation, in lieu of coconut oil, to make our products more likely to work for people in diverse geographic locations.

This Brazilian oil is very rich and wet, and a little goes a long way.  It does leave a bit of an oil feeling initially but absorbs well, even better and faster than coconut oil, on skin and hair.  It is best used for pre-poo’s , oil rinsing and sealing on the first day wash.  It also makes an amazing body oil and mixes well with all types of butters.  It has a pretty good shelf life too.  About a year stored at room temp and probably longer if kept in the fridge.

I like the babassu from From Nature With Love best.  It is organic and cold pressed and the price is excellent for the quality.

Borage Oil


This oil is amazing!  It is relatively light and fast absorbing but gives the moisturization of a rich oil.  It is really high in omega’s and GLA (gamma linolenic acid), vitamins and minerals.  It is exceptional for skin and hair and I love it best for oil rinsing and sealing.  It is light enough to work for daily use in between washes on its own or in conjunction with other oils.

The only downsides are the price – it is one of the pricier oils so if you love it, buy it in bulk to cut down on expenses.  (Also take advantage of using it before your child's hair is long and needs more of it.  Jubilee's hair is still under six inches so I can still go hog wild on the expensive oils.)  It also needs to be refrigerated as it is prone to become rancid at room temperature, at which point it will smell rather fishy.  You definitely want to buy it in smaller quantities that you can use up within a couple of months to avoid having a bunch of pricey oil getting spoiled and thus wasted.

New Directions Aromatics has the best price on the oil, but Mountain Rose Herbs has the best quality (organic and cold pressed/ unrefined.)

Coconut Oil



This is one of the beloved darlings of the natural hair world, and with good reason.  It stores well (up to 2 years shelf life at room temperature) and is relatively inexpensive.  It is versatile on skin and hair, and makes an excellent pre-shampoo, oil rinse or sealing oil.  You can buy it almost anywhere, not just online and has been linked to helping with hair growth and strengthening, and alleviating scalp problems like cradle cap, dandruff and lice.

Extra virgin is best, but I have seen people have great success with other more refined types of coconut oil if the smell is for some reason offensive to you.  The virgin coconut oil has a light coconut smell which most find pleasant, and that blends well with a number of essential oils.  (Coconut mint is my personal favorite, but that is more suitable for an older child.  Stick to lavender and or chamomile for toddlers and babies under the age of 4.)

The only downside to coconut oil is that it can respond differently on your skin and hair when you shift to a different climate.  This was my personal experience when I moved from temperate California to super-dry Arizona.  My skin and hair laughed at coconut oil and so does my daughter’s skin and hair.  (It leaves her hair crunchy.)  However, in California….it is the dream oil.  I have found through an informal survey, that this is the case with about 30% of people.  If you have this experience, do not fear.  Just blend the coconut oil down to a fraction of your oil blend or switch to another oil.  In drier climates I suggest Babassu and shea butter as suitable replacements.

Coconut is available at all health food stores and vitamin type shops.  The best deals are at Costco and off Amazon both Nutiva Brand.)

The 4 Main Ways To Incorporate Oil Into Your Curly Care Routine (Part 1)

In the previous blog we discussed the myriad of ways in which oil helps to nourish a healthy head of curly hair.  Today we will discuss the 4 main ways in which to incorporate oil into your child’s hair care regimen, namely; the pre-shampoo Treatment, the hot oil treatment, the oil rinse and sealing with oil.

The Pre-Shampoo Treatment

This simple treatment is frequently dubbed “pre-poo” for short.  Although some people use conditioners and clays as part of their pre-poo, for the purposes of this blog, I would say that really just one straight oil is all that is necessary when you are first starting out.

Basically the pre-poo consists of a singular oil, or combination of oils that help to nourish the hair and scalp prior to cleansing, and also helps to reduce friction between hair cuticles during the washing process.  The reduction in friction will reduce both the “stripped hair” feeling and the amount of tangling that normally accompanies shampooing (particularly a clarifying shampoo.)

A pre-poo can be done on dry or damp/ wet hair.

To pre-poo the hair, all you have to do is saturate your child’s hair with your oil(s) of choice and allow it to sit on the hair and scalp for anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours.  Obviously this will depend on the age of your child and their compliance level with walking around with “something” (usually a bandana in our household) or “stuff” in their hair.  Be sure to take the time to do a scalp massage too as you rub the oil into the hair and scalp.  The massaging action will help to loosen any dirt or flakes on the scalp and stimulate circulation (which helps with growth and general health of the hair.) 

In our house, the head scarf serves the dual purpose of preventing excess oil from dripping down onto her face, (thus preventing a melt-down) and the complete smearing of our furniture, clothes, carpet or other flooring with oil ;)  If your child is older than 3, you are probably eligible for the fancier hot oil treatment.

In a separate blog I will discuss various natural substances (some probably in your kitchen or bathroom right now) that you can add to your pre-poo to make it even more nourishing.

The Hot Oil Treatment

This is basically a pre-poo on wet or damp hair, with heat added.  The advantages of this over the pre-poo is that;

a)      It cuts down on time spent in the hair washing process, which for any child is a plus.

b)      It really stimulates growth for those for whom it matters.

c)       Helps to deliver any added nutrients like herbs and essential oils right into the roots of the follicles as the heat dilates blood vessels of the scalp, making them more open to receive said nutrients.

The disadvantage is that unless you have mad child training and disciplining skills, you should not even bother to attempt this on a child younger than 3 or 4.

To add the heat factor, all you really need to do is place a shower cap on their head.  If you have a hooded hair drier, (you know the bonnet kind that sits up on your counter and you sit under it, that will cut this whole hot oil/ pre-poo business down to 20 minutes.)

If not, just wrapping a towel, turban style, over the shower cap will do.  In a pinch you could also use a plastic baggy in lieu of the shower cap.  In a super pinch you could just wring out a towel dunked in hot water and wrap that around your child’s head.

The idea is to allow the heat that is naturally generated from your child’s head to become trapped in a sort of micro-climate around the scalp and hair, allowing the oil treatment to penetrate faster and deeper into both.

Part 2 of this blog will cover oil rinsing and oil sealing.